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 SKIN CLEAN
In
a perfect world, skin would only need a splash of water to cleanse
if efficiently. However, in reality, modern lifestyles take their
roll on skin, and water is often just not enough to keep skin scrupulously
clean. Environmental pollution, together with the make-up that we
wear and the dead cells on the surface of our skin, can all contribute
to making skin appear lackluster and lifeless. The solution? Improve
your complexion by giving skin what it thrives on ? regular attention.
Some experts say that most of us should cleanse our faces twice a
day ? not more, as this may cause irritation ? and deep cleanse our
skin at least once a month. Cleansing is the single most important
aspect of skin care and for this reason a deep cleansing routine is
an essential requirement if skin is to be kept in a peak condition.
There are a variety of basic cleansing products, each one with a specific
method of application. Soap and water, liquid cleansers, cream cleansers,
foaming gels, cleansing oils and cleansing pads are the main products
available for basic skin cleansing. For deeper cleansing, facial scrubs,
face masks and packs and steaming all remove dead skin cells from
the skin?s surface and remove any remaining pollutants.
Liquid assets
Soap and water is the most basic cleanser and for many skins it is
not only the most effective, but the most refreshing cleanser to use
too. However, choose your soap carefully. Many brands contain harsh
detergents which work well for the body but tend to be too drying
for the face. Soaps containing detergents strip the skin of its natural
acid mantle, therefore disturbing the protective acid pH. This acid
mantle protects the skin from harmful bacteria so look out for cleansing
bars which are pH balanced and designed to cleanse without disrupting
the skin?s acidity. Use moderately to wash your face. Work up a lather
from the soap and use small circular movement to wash your face. Rinse
with clean, warm water. If you wear an oil-based foundation, you may
need to use oil dissolving cream cleanser or cleansing oil before
you wash with a cleansing bar. Cream or liquid cleansers are mainly
oil-in-water emulsions which cleanse the skin by emulsifying water
and oil-soluble grime. Massage into the skin and then remove with
cotton wool, a tissue, or rinse off with water to wash away any traces
of cleanser. Cream cleansers are more suitable for delicate, dry or
mature skins, and are less suited to oily skins.
Lather
Up
Gels and foaming cleansers wash off, leaving the skin feeling fresh.
Excellent for young or oily skins, they leave skin feeling thoroughly
cleansed. Massage on to damp skin with the fingertips or use central
panel (or T-zone) of the face, the forehead, nose and chin, where
blemishes most often appear. Rinse with liberal splashes of warm water.
Exfoliators
and facial scrubs
Skin is constantly producing new cells and shedding old ones. In fact,
normal healthy skin renews itself totally every 28 days. However,
as we age, the process may slowdown, leaving accumulated dead cells
on the surface which gives skin a rough texture and a dull appearance.
Exfoliating products, such as facial scrubs, astringent lotions, alpha
hydroxy acid-based preparations, abrasive pads and brushes, slough
off any dead cells on the surface (the stratum corneum), leaving it
smoother, more radiant and more even in color. Basically, exfoliators
work by abrading the surface of the skin, gently peeling away the
discarded cells. Exfoliation also works on a deeper level by stimulating
the skin?s basal layer to produce new, fresh cells. This improves
the superficial texture of the skin, again giving it a smoother surface,
a more radiant glow and a more even skin ished, and the cells on the
surface are flat and smooth, refracting light and giving skin luminosity.
The latest breed of exfoliators contains alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
which are derived from natural sources: glycolic acid comed from sugar
cane; malic acids from apples; citric acid from citrus fruit and lactic
acid from milk. Alpha hydroxy acids work by clearing away dead cells
on the skin?s surface, so making it appear smoother and more lustrous.
Some AHAs, such as glycolic acid, are also thought to boost moisture
levels by improving the skin?s own water-binding function. Product
contain AHAs are particularly useful for pepping up and stimulating
old or tired skin but, like other exfoliators, they should not be
used by those with overly sensitive or chapped skin as they may cause
further irritation. Many dermatologists suggest that, if you use an
exfoliator containing alpha hydroxy acids, you should take extra care
when your skin is exposed to the sun and that it is best to use a
sunscreen with the sun protection factor of at least 8. Although some
dermatologists recommend AHA-based preparations and abrasive scrubs
for the treatment of severely oily skins or acne, they should be used
in moderation and with extreme caution. If you have severe acne, consult
a doctor or dermatologist before using any type of exfoliation treatment.
Steam
Clean
As a deep-cleansing treat, some beauticians recommend that you steam
your face once in a while. Not only does a gentle steam help to cleanse
skin, it also makes the skin more receptive to further treatment ?
in particular, before a facial massage or the application of a face
mask. In addition, it opens the pores, encourages the elimination
of ingrains impurities, relaxes muscle tissue and leaves skin feeling
ultra clean. Steaming is a great way to broken capillaries. If you
don?t have a facial sauna, use a bowl of cooling boiled water to which
you for delicate, dry skin, basil, mint or chamomile for oily skin
and lavender or rose petals for normal skin. Hold your face about
8-10 inches above the bowl and cover your head with a towel. All you
need is about 3 to 4 minutes of steam to cleanse thoroughly. Protect
delicate areas such as around the eyes and the cheeks with a layer
of moisturizer if skin is hyper-sensitive. When steaming is finished,
pat the skin dry with a tissue.
Deep
cleansing face masks
Although dermatologists argue about the efficacy of face packs and
masks for cleansing the skin, they have been used for centuries for
their skin cleansing and healing properties. Many cleansing masks
contain clay or mud which supposedly draws out and absorbs dirt and
grime, while acting as a gentle exfoliant. Gel-based masks usually
contain polymers which set to form a fine film dead cells and stale
make-up. Sulphur-based masks are often used to treat acne an to control
oily skin and should not be used on sensitive or dry skin, and winter
green and menthol based masks help to increase the circulation damp
skin, ideally after steaming, and leave on for the specified time.
Masks are best painted on to face with a brush. Take care to avoid
the eye, nostril and lip areas, and remember that your neck will benefit
as much as your face. Masks are usually left on the face for between
10 and 20 minutes, although the time does vary from product to product.
When removing the mask, be careful not to pull or drag the skin. Manufacturers
mat recommend their own removal method, but damp cotton wool is always
good. If possible, apply your chosen mask while soaking in a warm
bath as the steam will improve the results. If you have time, make
your own mask; for greasy skin, lightly beast an egg white, add lemon
juice and mix with oatmeal. Leave for 10 minutes, and then remove
with cool water. For mature and ached skins mix wheat germ (equally
good for both sin types because of its vitamin E content) with oatmeal
and milk to form a paste, leave for 15 minutes and rinse off. For
dry skin mix avocado, apricot and banana into a pulp, then add sufficient
cream to make a thick paste, or combine a tablespoon of fuller?s earth
and one of kelp. Leave for 30 minutes and rinse off.
MOISTURE
Whether or not most of us really need to use a moisturizer on our
skins is a matter of a great debate among dermatologists and cosmetologists.
Not only does it depend on your skin type, but on the environment
you live in. for example, if you have a dry skin and you are living
in a hot climate or your skin is exposed regularly to the sun, then
the chances are that you will probably need to use a moisturizer both
for comfort and to prevent flakiness and fine lines. So what is moisturizer?
Quite simply, it is a preparation that delivers water to the outer
layers of the skin, creating a barrier against further water being
lost. And how do they work? Moisturizers either produce an occlusive
layer that helps to prevent water loss from the surface or they attract
water from the surrounding environment. Some state-of-the-art moisturizers
do both. The application of water to the surface of the skin plumps
it up, as the stratum corneum absorbs the moisture, and the end result
is an improved complexion. The further application of a moisturizer
to dampened skin locks in the fluid and achieves an even better effect.
Moisturizers are available in many forms from oil-in-water emulsions,
which are creams. Oil-in-water moisturizers are perfect for oily skins
whereas water-in-oil moisturizers are best for dry and flaky complexions.
It is best to have your skin analyzed to determine your skin type,
although it should be fairly obvious if you have oily or dry skin.
You can then choose to moisturizer that is best suited to your skin?s
needs. Although skin may change from season to season, in general
its need for moisture is constant. Winter skin tends to need more
moisture than summer skin, as warm air holds more moisture than cold,
but this dosen?t means that you can forget about moisturizing during
the summer months. The low humidity of hot climates and the and the
dehydrating effects of sunlight, air-conditioning and the chemically
treated water, all cause moisture loss in the summer and central heating
and harsh winter weather can dehydrate skin during the winter months.
The use of soaps and detergents can also affect the skin?s moisture
balance and can cause dehydration by stripping away the skin?s proactive
lipid layer. Other factors, such as hormonal changes or the ageing
process, may also affect your skin?s moisture requirement. For example,
some women find that their skin texture changes before and during
menstruation and that they need to use less moisturizer. And as we
grow older, the protective film or lipid layer on the surface of the
skin becomes less effective giving poorer protection against water
loss, leading to dry, flaky skin that demands the use of a moisturizer.
Dermatologist also believe that skin has a natural moisturizing factor
(NMF) which helps to regulate water flow from the depths of the dermis
to the epidermis or surface of the skin. The NMF decreases with age,
so increasing the need for a moisturizer containing water-regulating
ingredients. Apart from water and NMF, sebum plays an important role
in preventing moisture loss by creating an occlusive layer on the
surface of the skin which delays water evaporation. That doesn?t mean,
however, that if you have an oily skin you don?t need to use a moisturizer.
You may have plenty of oil but not enough water and your skin can
become rough in texture and may feel taught and uncomfortable. If
you do have an oily complexion, opt for an oil-free product which
will deliver moisture without leaving your skin feeling greasy.
EYE
CONTACT
The eyes are the windows to the souls and need to be treated with
some respect. The area around the yes is the first to show the visible
signs of ageing. The skin here is finer and has fewer sebaceous glands
to create moisture-retaining sebum. Energy and vitality also reveal
themselves in clear eyes. Too many late nights and the strain of overwork
will dill their sparkle. Dark shadows under the eyes can be a sign
of bad blood circulation and accumulated toxins due to a sluggish
lymphatic system. So, first of all, improve your health by taking
more exercise, preferably in the open air. This will boost your circulation,
which can also too easily become sluggish in the winter, and may help
to dispel any accumulated toxins. Nest, check your diet. Shortages
of essential nutrients can sap energy. Low iron is often liked with
listlessness, so up your iron intake with natural sources such as
liver, wheat germ, lentils, parsley and cereals. In order to absorb
and use iron, the body needs vitamin C. Bioflavonoid have been found
to accompany vitamin C in fruit and vegetables and it is believed
that they play a helpful role in maintaining healthy blood vessels.
A properly balanced, nutritious diet must include plenty of these
foods. Puffiness and redness can be caused by excess alcohol and smoking.
Cut down on both, cleanse the digestive system by drinking lots of
lemon juice and water, and get plenty of sleep. Vitamin B complex
and C tablets can help replace the nutrients that are killed by smoking
and drinking. Herbal tea bags used as compresses bring comfort to
smoke-smitten eyes reduce puffiness and shadows. Elderflower calms
redness, peppermint cools and brightens, while chamomile soothes irritation.
Dip herbal tea bags in hot water, squeeze to remove the excess liquid,
and place on the lids for 10 minutes. Cotton wool soaked in witch-hazel
reduces swelling. Eye make-up removes with the same pH as tears, and
therapeutic plant extracts, such as cornflower and rosewater, are
also highly beneficial. In addition, ensure that you care for the
skin around your eyes with a moisturizing cream designed especially
for this sensitive area. It is best to choose gels and creams that
are oil- and fragrance-free. The simpler the formula, the less likely
it is to irritate the eyes. Pat a few dots of eye cream on to the
lids and underneath the eyes and massage in very gently with the fingertips,
using small circular movements.
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