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 10-point skin workout
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Start by removing any eye make-up with a gentle remover ? oil-free
removers is best. Apply the lotion to a cotton-wool pad and sweep it
over the eyelid and lashes and under the eye. Always use a separate
pad for each eye.
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Remove any make-up by cleansing. Cleansing bars and foaming
cleansers work well for most skin types. Splash skin with warm water
and then apply the cleanser, massaging it into the skin with circular
movements. For blemish prone skin, use a cleansing brush.
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Use a facial exfoliator to remove dead skin cells. Massage on the
damp skin, avoiding the delicate skin around the eyes the mouth.
Remove by rinsing with warm water.
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Treat skin to reviving steam. Fill a large bowl with cooling,
boiled water. Add herbs to the water, depending on your skin type.
Hold your face about 25 cm (10 inches) away from the water and cover
your head with a towel. Steam for three or four minutes.
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Groom eyebrows and gently remove any blackheads.
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Apply a deep-cleansing or moisturizing mask. Apply for the
specified amount of time, while relaxing in a warm bath or room.
Remove and rinse thoroughly with warm water.
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Tone skin to cleanse away any remaining traces of mask.
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Apply a reviving serum to your fingertips and massage into skin.
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Apply a suitable moisturizer and massage it in.
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Finish off by applying an eye gel or cream to alleviate any
dryness around the eyes.
SKIN CREAM INGREDIENTS
Although most dermatologists believe that no amount of hi-tech
ingredients can really make any difference to the texture of our skin,
cosmetic scientists beg to differ. Technically, ingredients that claim
to alter the cellular structure of the skin (such as retinol) should
really be classified as drugs and dermatologists believe that they
should therefore be prescribed. The following ingredients are just a
few of the most common substance that you may come across when buying
a skin care preparation.
ADENOSINE TRIPHOSPHATE (ATP)
A molecule used to transfer energy from energy-yielding to
energy-requiring cells. Used in some creams to boost cell metabolism
and encourage regeneration.
ALLANTOIN
A natural substance which has healing and soothing properties. It is
extracted from a water plant from the Conferva genus.
ALOE VERA
Extracted from the aloe vera cactus, this gel-like substance has
been proven to have healing properties. Used for centuries by Native
Americans, it helps to reduce inflammation and alleviate painful skin
conditions such as sunburn. Used in after-sun products.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAs)
Also known as fruit acids, alpha hydroxyl acids, are derived from a
variety of sources including grapes, milk, citrus fruits and apples.
They literally sweep off the dead cells on the surface of the skin,
leaving skin brighter and diminishing fine lines. They also supposedly
increase the skin's moisture uptake. They are used in relatively small
percentages in many over-the-counter skin creams and toning lotions.
Dermatologists and beauty therapists, however, use them in higher
concentrations in skin peels. They can cause a reaction in sensitive
skins, so should be used with care and in moderation.
AMINO ACIDS
The building blocks of protein and enzymes found in abundance in all
skin cells. Also needed to make new collagen and elastin fibers which
form the skin's support system. Vital for cell renewal. Also seem to
play a role in binding moisture within the skin cells.
ANTIOXIDANTS
These include the vitamin A, C and E which are reported to have
protective properties against cell damage caused by the action of free
radicals.
AZULENE
Azulene is extracted from chamomile flowers. It acts as a
desensitizer, and helps to protect skin from allergic reactions. It is
most often used in face and body preparations and in cosmetics, to
prevent allergy.
BEESWAX
Obtained from the honeycombs after honey has been removed, it helps
to smooth and soften the skin.
BISABOLOL
A calming chemical found in chamomile oil. It soothes inflammation
and reduces redness, making it a popular ingredient in products geared
to sensitive skins.
CAFFEINE
A mild stimulant, caffeine is an alkaloid drug, which has minor
diuretic and analgestic effects. It is used in skin care creams to
stimulate blood circulation and lymphatic drainage ? often found in
body-contouring products and eye creams.
CERAMIDES
Waxy substances found naturally in the skin's intercellular cement ?
the glue that sticks scaly cells together in the protective stratum
corneum (skin?s surface layer). If the cement is eroded by washing or
exposure to abrasive elements the barrier is weakened, leaving skin
dry, and dull in appearance. Most modern creams, particularly those
claiming to be anti-ageing or offering intensive moisturisation,
contain ceramides to reinforce the intercellular cement.
CEREBROSIDES
Related to ceramides, they are found in creams which claim to
restructure the skin, again by sticking together the skin's
intercellular cement.
CLAY
A fine white powder obtained from sedimentary rock which claims to
restructure the skin's intercellular cement.
COLLAGEN
A structural protein which is found in the connective tissue of the
dermis, it is composed of protein fibres. It provides support and
firmness to the skin. As we age, the fibres degenerate, resulting in
loss of tone. Collagen is often broken down into amino acids before it
is added to skin creams. It is claimed that it acts as a moisturizer
and that it forms a protective, softening film over the skin.
GLYCIDS
A technical term for glucose and it derivates. An energy source for
the skin.
GLYCERIN
A chemical brew made by combining water and fat, which produces a
transparent gel-like liquid. Glycerin helps to maintain the water
content of moisturizing products although when applied to the skin, it
can actually absorb the skin's natural moisture. It is used in many
face and body moisturizer.
HORSETAIL
The horsetail plant contains minerals which supposedly have a
therapeutic effect on the skin?s elasticity.
HYALURONIC ACID
One of the most widely acclaimed substances to be used in skin care,
hyaluronic acid belongs to a family of gel-like substances known as
mucopolysaccarides. It supposedly helps to absorb and hold water,
making it a potent moisturizer.
LANOLIN
Oil extracted from sheep's wool, lanolin is similar in composition
to the seburn of human skin. It acts as a moisture barrier on the
surface of the skin, helping to trap water and keep skin soft and
smooth. Lanolin has been shown to be a common allergen. It is used in
moisturizers for face and body and in some cosmetics.
LINOLEIC AND GAMMA LINOLEIC ACID (GLA)
These are essential fatty acids, sometimes called vitamin F. They
play a vital role in cell membranes, keeping them flexible and
watertight. Lack of vitamins F results in dry, rough, itchy skin.
Linoletic acids occur naturally in vegetable seed oils such as
sunflower and safflower oils, while the rarer GLA is found in evening
primrose and blackcurrant oils. Both are used in numerous moisturizing
creams and lotions.
LIPIDS
The skin?s own sebaceous secretions are made up of lipids which form
a lubricating and moisture-trapping film over the surface. Lipids in
skin creams aim to replace and supplement these natural oils.
LIPOSOMES
Discovered by medical researchers, liposomes are tiny fatty micro
spheres which are used to transport and target active ingredients into
the skin. They often contain moisturizing our energizing substances.
Because of their microscopic dimensions, they apparently pass through
the skin's surface cells and carry the active ingredients to the
deeper layers where they react with the skin's own chemical, disperse
and release their contents.
NATURAL MOISTURIZING FACTOR (NMF)
The skin?s natural moisturizing factor, NMF, can be extracted and
used to maintain moisture levels on the skin's surface. Used in
moisturizers.
OLIGO ELEMENTS
Trace minerals essential to the functioning of enzymes involved in
making healthy new cells.
OXYGEN
Used as a vehicle or transport system in anti-ageing skin creams. It
is claimed that oxygen helps to carry moisture (water) and other
active ingredients into the epidermis.
PANTHENOL
A derivative of vitamin B5, (pantothenic acid) that helps protects
skin against environmental hazards. Often used in mascara and in nail
treatment, it supposedly strengthens nails and lashes.
PHOSPHOLIPIDS
These play a major role in the structure of cell membranes. These
membranes regulate the flow of nutrients (including oxygen) into, and
wash out of, the cells.
PLANT EXTRACTS
These have numerous qualities. They can help to firm up (hops) and
tighten tissue (red vine, horse chestnut), calm (chamomile) and boost
circulation (ivy). Often used in products designed to refine and firm
up puffy or flabby tissue on hips and thighs.
POLYMER
A natural derivative obtained from cellulose, a constituent of plant
tissue. It has moisture absorbing and retaining properties. Used in
intensive moisturizing skin creams and masks and in hair products.
PYROLIDONE CARBOXYLIC ACID (PCA)
A constitution of the skin?s NMF, it provides the skin with
substances essential for restoring moisture balance. Used in
moisturizers.
RETINYL PALMITATE
A relation of vitamin A, this ingredient is often used in
anti-ageing creams. Cosmetic scientists claim that it has a mild
regenerating effect on the skin. However, there is no evidence that
the small amounts of retinyl palmitate used in skin-care creams have
much effect.
TYROSINE
A natural amino acid which is present in skin cells, Tyrosine is
converted into the tanning pigment melanin when skin is exposed to
sunlight. It is used in pre-tan products to help stimulate natural
levels. It is claimed that it helps to speed up tanning and protect
skin from UVA and UVB rays.
VEGETABLE OILS
These form a fine protective film over the skin (similar to the
skin's own oily secretions) and so seal in moisture to keep skin soft
and supple.
VITAMIN E (TOCOPHEROL)
Known as the anti-ageing vitamin, vitamin E is a natural
anti-oxidant which helps to protect the body's cells from the
destructive and ageing effects of free radicals, marauding chemicals
within the body. It works by protecting polyunsaturated fats, such as
linoleic acid from free radicals, which can be activated by ultra
violet light, pollution, and toxins including cigarette smoke and
alcohol.
WITCH HAZEL
A North American shrub which has been used for centuries to heal and
tone the skin and as a wash for the eyes. Its firming and astringent
properties make it a useful ingredient in skin toners and cleaners.
XANTHENES
Chemical relatives of caffeine, xanthines are often used in
anti-cellulite preparations. It particular, Aminophylline, a Xanthine,
is believed to speed up fat burning, so helping to eliminate fatty
deposits on thighs, upper arms and buttocks.
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